General Info

It is highly recommended for all decals to be wet applied, particularly where placement is important. For the smaller decals that don't have a critical location, they can be dry applied, but you only have one chance. From personal experience, wet is the best. If you wish to do it yourself check out the information on how to wet apply decals.

BDESIGNS has no control over your decal and/or paint application and therefore takes no responsibility for any losses or personal injury of any kind, incurred by you or any other party. If you are not experienced, we recommend you have your local signage or body shop apply any decals, and your local bodyshop apply any automotive finishes.


I bought a set of decals for my motocross bike from someone else and they don't stick very good. Can you help me with a better set?

I got some bubbles when I installed my decals and it doesn't look good. What is wrong with your decals?

I bought some OEM decals from a website, but they didn't stick properly. What can I do? Can your company reproduce them for me and would they stick better?

Why are your Seca Turbo stripes much more expensive than your competitors?

Why are the European Version of the Seca Turbo stripes so expensive?

How do I remove my old decals?

How do I apply my new decals?

Can I apply finish over top of my new decals?

I had problems repositioning a reflective white decal during application. Why?

I bought a set of decals for my motocross bike from someone else and they don't stick very good. Can you help me with a better set?

Most likely, the wrong type of decal material was used, or the place where you bought them from, did not know the parts were the type of plastic commonly found on motocross bikes, such as fenders, fuel tanks and side panels. Some bikes also have a mix of metal and plastic parts. Not everybody knows there are special materials available for use on plastics, but the more reputable sources will know this.

Decals that are meant to be applied to these types of "Low Energy" plastics, require material with a much more aggressive adhesive that will properly hold the decal to the parts. Although the adhesive is much more agressive, please keep in mind that decals on a fuel tank that are not clear coated (and you can't clearcoat this type of plastic) are subject to fuel spillage breaking down the adhesive backing over time, so please promptly clean up any fuel spillage to minimize this problem. This is the same issue that can happen if you don't clearcoat over vinyl decals on fuel tanks for road bikes, that have painted metal fuel tanks.

Some competitors claim to be the only one's in the world to offer a material that will not blister or lift off a fuel tank. This is untrue. First, there is NO magic formula, and there is NO material in the world that will not blister off of a fuel tank if constant fuel spillage is not cleaned up. Hence we stated above - cleanup fuel spillage! Secondly, the two most popular, and quality materials that are available to ANYBODY in this type of business, are called CONVEX® by Convex Vinyl, and Gerber Permagrip® which is a product manufactured by 3M®.

For any of these "Low Energy" plastics, we will use either of these materials. If we are working with you on reproducing decals for a motocross bike, please ensure you inform us of all the parts that are plastic.

I got some bubbles when I installed my decals and it doesn't look good. What is wrong with your decals?

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the decals. The problem is one entirely of how the decal was applied. Most likely not all the water or air was worked out from underneath the decal, or it wasn't laid properly, or both. Unless you are experienced in decal application, you should let a professional do the work. And not all professional body shops are experienced in decal application (but may say they are). I have seen very poor jobs even by some that say they are experienced. If there are bubbles or wrinkles, then the person who did your work did not have the necessary skills to do so.

It may also be that the decals were applied too soon. Sometimes if the basecoat has not "gassed off" enough, gassing bubbles can form underneath the decal. Both of these issues are strictly controlled by the painter - these are not problems caused by the decals.

I bought some OEM decals from a website, but they didn't stick properly. What can I do? Can your company reproduce them for me and would they stick better?

The problem with OEM decals that you can buy for vintage bikes, is that the adhesive backing is so old, it has most likely dried out over time and lost the ability to stick (lost it's tack). Like any adhesive, the adhesive backing on the unapplied decal material has a shelf life. Storage of the unused decal is important. If the decals are stored in air tight (sealed) containers just after they were manufactured, the adhesive will last a number of years. However, decals are not stored this way. Generally the adhesive shelf life (not to be confused with decal life) is anywhere from 1 to 3 years, depending on the type of material. After that time, the longer they sit around, the less they will stick. So that is what most likely happened with the decals you bought. Don't take any chances with old decals. Old decals could ruin a restoration job and could cost you much more money in re-work, than just buying new reproduction decals.

However, your money wasn't entirely wasted. It is much easier and faster for us to reproduce decals when going from the original, flat and unused OEM decals. We can also colour match much more easily. They are also much easier and less expensive to mail to us than parts of your motorcycle. And yes, the reproduced decals are made with new materials, so they will stick very well.

Why are your Seca Turbo stripes much more than your competitors?

There are a number of reasons why our stripes can be more expensive than some (not all) of our competitors. The reasons can be somewhat technical and lengthy, but hopefully understandable.

Turbo Stripe Facts

The OEM stripes had a high gloss finish which matched the sheen (shine) of the fairing paint. This allowed the decals to be put on after painting and also allowed them to be replaced. To reproduce this exact sheen requires a layer of 2mil high performance clear automotive vinyl overtop the red vinyl and thermally printed blue stripe. All other competitors (two or three that we know of) don't do this. They only laminate over with a clear thin film that is moderately UV and/or moderately scratch resistant. When the clear film is laminated onto the decals, it is only has a semi-gloss sheen. We were originally going to have them produced this way (less expensive) but did not like the look of the semi-gloss. We also entertained no film at all, just leaving the thermally printed blue (semi-gloss) on the automotive vinyl (gloss) but did not like the difference either.


Despite what some competitors say, there is no such product (film or even clear vinyl) that is scratch proof, not even ours (but ours is more durable than the film). There is also no such thing as UV proof, only resistant. There is no such thing as fuel proof either, only fuel resistant. And unless you clearcoat over your decals, even a decal with a clear vinyl layer which may resist fuel quite well, can still have the adhesive on the back of the decal deteriorated over time by fuel spillage. Also, if you use a high quality vinyl backing with, for example, a 6 year warranty, and you apply a print with a material or inkjet ink that only has a 3 year warranty, it is only going to last 3 years. It is...the weakest link.

Decal Manufacturing Technology Facts

There are three primary printing technologies for automotive decals: resin printing, inkjet printing and silkscreen printing. Silk screening is too expensive for low volume aftermarket or custom printing, so this will not be mentioned further. After reviewing the pros and cons, we decided to use strictly resin printing.

Resin Printing

The printing machine has many tiny little dot shaped "heads" that are heated. The heated "heads" push the thin film of coloured resin againt the vinyl material and permanently bond it. Resin printing is more expensive than inkjet printing. The bonded resin films have a UV life of 3-5 years, depending on the colour of resin and without any additional over laminate. There are a large number of vibrant colours available and can be printed on a large number of automotive vinyls. It doesn't have to dry so transfer materials can be applied immediately after printing. Metallic backing material is true metallic (unlike inkjet). This technology is recommended when creating short run decals under 12" wide.

Inkjet Printing

Uses a similar principle as your home inkjet printer, but with special pigmented inks and specially treated backing vinyls, which allow the decals to become waterproof after they have dried. Inkjet printing is less expensive than resin printing. The decals have to dry before applying transfer material. When using pigmented inks and a UV laminate (semi-gloss), the decals have a UV life of 3+ years, which is less than resin printed decals. The machines have a high resolution. Outdoor and automotive use requires the UV lamination. Also, metallic colours are only simulated but not reproduced exactly, so you lose the "depth" of a true metallic backing. This technology is recommended for vehicle graphics over 12" with a laminate.

Non-printed Vinyls, Vinyl Laminates and Clearcoating

For our decals that are non-printed vinyls, the lifetime can range from 5-8 years. Printed decals that have a clear layer of high performance vinyl, can last as long as the clear vinyl, so you can add about 1 -2 years on top of the resin printed decal. Clearcoating overtop of resin printed decals (without any additional layers) will last significantly longer. We can produce the Seca Turbo stripes for noticeably less (and competitive with lower priced competition) without the clear vinyl, but I would recommend you either clearcoat overtop of them or ignore the semi-gloss blue stripe.

The lifetime of all decals can be affected (good or bad) by amount of exposure to sun, fuels, cleaning and proper care.

Like anything, you should ask questions before you buy. We highly recommend that you investigate or do research for yourself regarding the two methods mentioned above.

The bottom line...You get what you pay for.

Why is the European version of the Seca Turbo stripes so expensive?

This set is more expensive than the North American set since it must go through 3 processes on the machine instead of the 2 processes that the North American set goes through, because of the "turbo" lettering in the side stripes. Keep in mind that both North American and European stripes have a layer of high performance clear vinyl overtop to give the sheen of the original and gives added protection and longevity.

How do I remove my old decals?

If you have purchased decals that already exist, make sure to take notes of the decal placement before you remove the old decals. Most decals will be destroyed during the removeal process, so if you are participating in our Decal Assistance Program, please do the overall decal measurements, location measurements and photographing before you remove the decals, or better yet, consider sending us your panels, tanks, etc. Generally, stripes and logos will come off in pieces and be destroyed during the removeal process. Any reflective decals will also be destroyed during removeal. Some frame decals are the types that may be able to be removed in one piece for sending to us, but again, collect information first. For instructions on collecting information and photographs for decals for reproduction, click here.

We don't recommend using a heat gun to remove decals because they are hot enough to melt plastic and they will destroy all decals during removeal, we recommend using a hair dryer on a high setting. Use the hair dryer to heat the surface of the decal up, starting at one end. Once the decal is very warm to the touch, use a thin object like the edge of a dull knife or a fingernail and gently lift one of the heated corners up. Start peeling the corner back. As you keep peeling, you will have to keep applying heat as you keep working along the decal. If you are trying to save the decals, pull very gently and work it slowly so as not to tear or stretch the decal. After the decals are removed, clean the surface with grease and wax remover and let dry. If you have managed to save some decals for sending to us, please "stick" the decal on a piece of plain paper to help hold it flat and prevent it from sticking to anything.

How do I apply my new decals?

Step 1. Read this caution before proceeding. The steps below are general application instructions. Specific installation instructions can be found by clicking "Instructions" in the side menu.

Can I apply finish over top of my new decals?

Yes you can, but it is best if a professional does this.

Step 1. Read this caution before proceeding. Specific installation instructions can be found by clicking "Instructions" in the side menu.

Only use high quality PPG acrylic urethane clear coat finish. We have not tested any other manufacturer’s clear coat product. Most if not all, motorcycle OEM's clear coat their decals on fuel tanks to prevent fuel spillage from attacking the graphics adhesive backing and colouring, so we recommend that you to clear coat any decals that may be subjected to fuel spillage.

Specific finishing tips for items such as handlebar control and windshield restoration decals follow slightly different guidelines. For these decals, click on Instructions in the side menu.

I had problems repositioning a reflective white decal during application. Why?

You only have one chance to apply decals made with a reflective white backing. The construction of reflective vinyls will not allow the decal to be pulled back up without damaging. Wet application is a must! This will allow minor corrections if you are careful and haven't applied any pressure during the wet application. It would be much safer to have a local automotive trim or decal shop apply these for you.

Downloadable Instruction Sheets

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Model specific Instructions, if available, will be e-mailed to you when your order ships.

General Instructions

To download instructions on collecting information and photos for reproducing decals, click here.

To download Ignition Switch Decal Installation Instructions, click here.

To obtain Handlebar Control Body Restoration Instructions, please request these.

To download instructions on General Decal Application instructions, click here.

To download instructions on General Clearcoating Guidelines, click here.

To download instructions on Vinyl Paint Stencil Application, click here.

To download instructions on Plastic Restoration Aftercare, click here.

To download instructions on Fairing Bra Information and Care, click here.

To download instructions on Reproduction Rubber Component Aftercare, click here.

To download Forever Black Application Instructions, click here.